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Lessons Learned – The Gnome Who Didn’t Survive the Paint Job

  • Writer: Peter Demos
    Peter Demos
  • May 18
  • 3 min read

After finishing the wizard from Reaper Bones’ Learn to Paint Kit: Layer Up!, I moved on to the second figure — the female gnome. This little caster had some personality, and I was excited to dive in.

Right out of the box, I noticed the knife arm was broken. I thought about fixing it, but honestly? I didn’t feel like gluing it back on. This was more of a practice piece for layering anyway, so I just rolled with it. No primer needed — these Reaper Bones minis are supposed to be good to go from the start.

The guide recommended a pretty detailed paint order: cloak, skin, lining, chainmail, hair, leather coat and sword hilt, coat studs, hair clips, cloak pin, belt buckle, boots, gloves, belt, stone base, sword blade, hilt, and pommel. Spoiler alert: I didn’t make it all the way through.


Cloak Basecoat

I started with the basecoat on the cloak. That went on nice and smooth.


basecoat on cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Basecoat on cloak
basecoat on cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Basecoat on cloak

Shadow Layers

Then came the shadow layers — I did two. The first was a general shade layer, and the second was a darker tone I worked into the deeper creases of the cape. This part was going great.

Shadow layers put on cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Shadow layers put on cloak
Shadow layers put on cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Shadow layers put on cloak

Highlight Layers

Next came the highlights on the cloak. I put down two layers here too and was happy with how they turned out — smooth blends, good contrast, and a nice pop to the folds for my abilities.


Highlights added to cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Highlights added to cloak
Highlights added to cloak of Reaper Bones miniature
Highlights added to cloak

Glaze Layer

Before jumping into the skin basecoat, I added a glaze layer to smooth out the transitions between the warm tones I was planning to use. This helped knock down any roughness and acted like a subtle filter that tied everything together. It made the skin feel more unified from the start.

Glaze layer added to cape of Reaper Bones miniature.
Glaze layer added to cape.
Glaze layer added to cape of Reaper Bones miniature.
Glaze layer added to cape.

Skin Tones

I then moved on to painting the skin. I laid down two layers of skin tone because some of the grey was still showing through after the first coat.

Base layer of skin tone on Reaper Bones Gnome mini
Base layer of skin tone on
Base layer of skin tone on Reaper Bones Gnome mini
Base layer of skin tone on

Then came the shadows and highlights for the skin, and honestly, I felt like I was hitting a groove.

shadow and highlights added to skin on Reaper Bones Gnome Mini
Shadows and highlights added

Lining and Trouble

After that, I started working on the lining — especially around the skin, gloves, and shoes.

Lining added to Reaper Bones Gnome miniature
Lining added around the boots and gloves

And then, while working on the chainmail, I pressed a little too hard while trying to get the underside — and snap. The figure broke clean off just above the feet.

Applied too much pressure to the miniature and broke it around the feet.
Applied too much pressure while trying to paint bottom of chainmail and broke the miniature

I had officially joined the ranks of mini painters who’ve had a model fall apart mid-project.

I could’ve glued it back and kept going, but at that point, I decided it wasn’t worth it. The whole point of this kit is to practice techniques and build comfort with layering — and I’d already gotten some good reps in.


Final Thoughts

Lesson learned: sometimes minis break — and that’s okay. Not every figure needs to make it to completion. Sometimes, the progress is the win.

On to the next one!


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